Rest & Relaxation Revive Rowdy Reveler. Really!
Ahhhhh... to sleep in... I didn't set an alarm. I let my body wake up on its own, shortly after 9AM. Then I had a tough decision. What to do with my day? I was tempted to go back to sleep, or to just lay in bed and relax with a book. At the same time, I knew this was my only day in the Cinque Terre- did I really want to spend it in my hotel room? Trick question! So what to do instead? Stay in Monterosso and be lazy on the beach? Or tackle some of the other lovely towns? I was eager to explore, but ever mindful of my bad ankle. While it was improving, it took very little to tweak it and cause me great pain. A long day of walking was still quite uncomfortable and the end of each day still had me propping the foot up to alleviate swelling.
I went to breakfast at 9:30 and met up with Tom and Ila. They had a boat and train schedule and were trying to plan out their day. I was leaning heavily towards taking the boat to each of the towns. I love being on the water and knew it would be fun to view each of the towns for the vantage of the boat. Plus it would minimize my walking.
Little Ricky had told me that if I was just going to see one other town, to take the boat to Portovenere, the last town on the boat route, just past the Cinque Terre. He told me it was his favorite town, and it was the place that had a WOW factor when you approached it.
Before I went anywhere, I wanted to but some sunscreen and a cap. While I liked my new hat from Rome, I feared losing it on a windy boat ride. A cap that I could secure on my head would be better.
I had a peaceful time, walking along the beach, people watching and taking pictures, peeking into little shops. While I wasn't able to find a t-shirt to my liking, I managed to find a cute pink cap and a big bottle of sunscreen.
I went to breakfast at 9:30 and met up with Tom and Ila. They had a boat and train schedule and were trying to plan out their day. I was leaning heavily towards taking the boat to each of the towns. I love being on the water and knew it would be fun to view each of the towns for the vantage of the boat. Plus it would minimize my walking.
Little Ricky had told me that if I was just going to see one other town, to take the boat to Portovenere, the last town on the boat route, just past the Cinque Terre. He told me it was his favorite town, and it was the place that had a WOW factor when you approached it.
Before I went anywhere, I wanted to but some sunscreen and a cap. While I liked my new hat from Rome, I feared losing it on a windy boat ride. A cap that I could secure on my head would be better.
I had a peaceful time, walking along the beach, people watching and taking pictures, peeking into little shops. While I wasn't able to find a t-shirt to my liking, I managed to find a cute pink cap and a big bottle of sunscreen.
11AM had me walking to the boat dock. I paid 28E for my round trip ticket to Portovenere, a 45 minute ride.
The ride was amazing! I sat on the top deck of the boat and enjoyed the glorious sunshine, the ocean breezes, and the dip and sway of the waves.
I had my camera at the ready and enjoyed the approach to each town in the Cinque Terre. Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore all sat bright and colorful tucked into the hills and crevasses along the rugged coastline.
The ride was amazing! I sat on the top deck of the boat and enjoyed the glorious sunshine, the ocean breezes, and the dip and sway of the waves.
I had my camera at the ready and enjoyed the approach to each town in the Cinque Terre. Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore all sat bright and colorful tucked into the hills and crevasses along the rugged coastline.
Once we got past the towns of the Cinque Terre, we made the approach to Portovenere. Just as Little Ricky said, it had a WOW approach. Sitting all lonely at the edge of the coast on top of a craggy hill, Doria castle seemed to rise from the rocks, steadfast and majestic with waves crashing below. Lower and closer still to the edge of the cliffs, rose a magnificent little church.
Reminiscent of the cathedral in Orvietto, the Church of St. Peter had the unique grey stripe to its stone façade, charming arches and a tall steeple.
Reminiscent of the cathedral in Orvietto, the Church of St. Peter had the unique grey stripe to its stone façade, charming arches and a tall steeple.
As we started to go around the curve of the cliffs, different styles of boats were bobbing along, their passengers making the most of the wonderful day. Then BOOM, a burst of bright color as the town spread itself out before us.
We pulled into the marina and I disembarked and made my way ashore. With a population of just over 3,700, Portovenere was just my size of town!
I walked along the stone path beside the road, enjoying the views and the atmosphere. I saw a man huddled on the stone barrier that runs along the street and then I realized it was Pat! I walked over, concerned at first, but then he looked up at me and grinned and I was instantly relieved. "I'm just trying to figure out what I want to do," he informed me. We chatted for a few minutes and then went our separate ways.
I decided that lunch by the water might be just the ticket. I took a seat and was quickly brought a menu. I ordered a pepperoni pizza and a bottle of water. Due to the language barrier, I was instead brought a pizza with peppers and a bottle of water! Laughing it off, I made due. The pizza was delicious!
I decided that lunch by the water might be just the ticket. I took a seat and was quickly brought a menu. I ordered a pepperoni pizza and a bottle of water. Due to the language barrier, I was instead brought a pizza with peppers and a bottle of water! Laughing it off, I made due. The pizza was delicious!
Memorable Moment
I felt very relaxed as I boat watched and people watched. Just in front of me a young Italian family was enjoying their lunch. It was mom and dad and an adorable little girl around four years old and a baby boy. They soon packed up and left and it was then that I saw a purse slung over the chair where the mother had sat. In the chaos that happens in young families, they had forgotten the purse.
I quickly grabbed the purse and started running down the walking path, hoping to catch up to them. Of course my Italian is limited to a badly accented "Scusi! Scusi!" The mom turned around and I held out the purse. Rushing in English that I knew they probably didn't understand, I explained finding the purse and handed it back with a smile. The mother was very grateful. She explained that it was her daughter's purse and very special to her. Again, she thanked me. I smiled and waved and made my way back to my table.
A minute later the mom came back with the little girl. At the mother's prompting, the child took several steps forward, smiled bashfully and said in careful English, "Thank You!" She then blew me a couple of kisses.
I wanted to cry. It was such a precious moment. I blew the little girl a kiss back, and waved at her and her mother. Even now it makes me joyfully teary to remember.
Such a little thing, but it meant so much. It made my day.
I quickly grabbed the purse and started running down the walking path, hoping to catch up to them. Of course my Italian is limited to a badly accented "Scusi! Scusi!" The mom turned around and I held out the purse. Rushing in English that I knew they probably didn't understand, I explained finding the purse and handed it back with a smile. The mother was very grateful. She explained that it was her daughter's purse and very special to her. Again, she thanked me. I smiled and waved and made my way back to my table.
A minute later the mom came back with the little girl. At the mother's prompting, the child took several steps forward, smiled bashfully and said in careful English, "Thank You!" She then blew me a couple of kisses.
I wanted to cry. It was such a precious moment. I blew the little girl a kiss back, and waved at her and her mother. Even now it makes me joyfully teary to remember.
Such a little thing, but it meant so much. It made my day.
At 2:30 I took an Island Boat Tour. The price was included in my earlier paid boat fee. The tour was around 45 minute and took us around the archipelago and the three islands of Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto. It's a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The islands and the water surrounding them are stunning. The larger islands are also known for their caves. It was a great tour!
Of course the best way to "recover" from a hard day of sightseeing and boat riding is to indulge in a gelato (lemon)!
At 5PM I caught the boat back to Monterosso. The ride home was much slower as the wind and waves had really picked up. I took some video as our boat approached one of the towns. The waves were so high, we were bouncing all over the place and I was certain we'd be bashed against the rocks. Just when I was sure there would be an announcement saying we couldn't stop, and the people wanting to go home were just out of luck... we made it in.
Back "home" at the Punta Mesco, our group celebrated "Happy Hour" thanks to Dimitri and the hotel staff. Pizza was sliced and served, along with cheese and wine.
It was also at this time, that Rob and Norma made the announcement that they were leaving the tour and would be flying home ASAP. We were stunned into silence. We'd known that Norma was really struggling with a bad knee and had opted out of several excursions. But we'd had no idea the extent of her suffering. By this time in the tour, our group felt so bonded, like a family, that to see anybody go was devastating. Rob was another friend that I'd met through the Rick Steves message board before the trip. So I felt especially bad, since I'd known even before the trip how much they had planned for this tour and how much they had anticipated it.
I pulled Dimitri aside and asked if there was a shop very nearby that might have cards. I said it would be great if we could quickly get a card for them that everybody could sign. He told me to wait a minute. He reappeared shortly with a blank card and a pen. I wrote a quick note that I hoped would represent all of our feelings in missing them and wishing them well. I signed it and then passed it on for everybody else to sign. Somebody brought a piece of paper so we could all write down our e-mails and Facebook info to keep in touch with them.
Norma was feeling so poorly and was so emotional that she and Rob left us shortly after getting their card and before I could get a picture. They needed to pack and make their arrangements to get back home.
Dimitri was quick to help us regain our jolly moods. He promised to follow up with Rob and Norma and let us know they got home safely. He reminded us that we were still on vacation and had paid good money for our trip, so not to dwell on the unfortunate things we couldn't control. We were in paradise and to make the most of our last hours there! Naturally, he was right!
It was at about this time that the rumor started in our group that Rick Steves, THE RICKSTER HIMSELF, was in Monterosso! Some group members had been trekking around old town and ran into some other tourists who had recently seen him. We brought this rumor to Dimitri who would neither confirm nor deny The Rickster's presence. We took that for a yes! The most Dimitri would say was that it was POSSIBLE Rick was nearby, and ONE NEVER KNEW when and where he might pop up!
I was excited. Just as I always assume I'll win the lottery and was CERTAIN I'd meet the Pope, and Tom Hanks, and Ron Howard... I just KNEW I'd be meeting my travel icon RICK STEVES and sharing some limoncello with him before the end of the tour!
It was also at this time, that Rob and Norma made the announcement that they were leaving the tour and would be flying home ASAP. We were stunned into silence. We'd known that Norma was really struggling with a bad knee and had opted out of several excursions. But we'd had no idea the extent of her suffering. By this time in the tour, our group felt so bonded, like a family, that to see anybody go was devastating. Rob was another friend that I'd met through the Rick Steves message board before the trip. So I felt especially bad, since I'd known even before the trip how much they had planned for this tour and how much they had anticipated it.
I pulled Dimitri aside and asked if there was a shop very nearby that might have cards. I said it would be great if we could quickly get a card for them that everybody could sign. He told me to wait a minute. He reappeared shortly with a blank card and a pen. I wrote a quick note that I hoped would represent all of our feelings in missing them and wishing them well. I signed it and then passed it on for everybody else to sign. Somebody brought a piece of paper so we could all write down our e-mails and Facebook info to keep in touch with them.
Norma was feeling so poorly and was so emotional that she and Rob left us shortly after getting their card and before I could get a picture. They needed to pack and make their arrangements to get back home.
Dimitri was quick to help us regain our jolly moods. He promised to follow up with Rob and Norma and let us know they got home safely. He reminded us that we were still on vacation and had paid good money for our trip, so not to dwell on the unfortunate things we couldn't control. We were in paradise and to make the most of our last hours there! Naturally, he was right!
It was at about this time that the rumor started in our group that Rick Steves, THE RICKSTER HIMSELF, was in Monterosso! Some group members had been trekking around old town and ran into some other tourists who had recently seen him. We brought this rumor to Dimitri who would neither confirm nor deny The Rickster's presence. We took that for a yes! The most Dimitri would say was that it was POSSIBLE Rick was nearby, and ONE NEVER KNEW when and where he might pop up!
I was excited. Just as I always assume I'll win the lottery and was CERTAIN I'd meet the Pope, and Tom Hanks, and Ron Howard... I just KNEW I'd be meeting my travel icon RICK STEVES and sharing some limoncello with him before the end of the tour!
Our group quickly went back to our silly, chatty selves. Bucky had to show off the slippers he'd bought in Amsterdam.
Herb, on the other hand, took frugality and practicality to new heights. He washed his clothes in the hotel sink and then hung them up on the fence across the street to dry during Happy Hour!
Herb, on the other hand, took frugality and practicality to new heights. He washed his clothes in the hotel sink and then hung them up on the fence across the street to dry during Happy Hour!
I love this picture of Lannie and Imants. Imants is one of a kind, funny, talkative and full of laughter. I think this picture represents our group in general, and how much fun we had together on our trip.
An hour later the group broke up and everybody went their separate ways. I was a bit confused because the night before, Dimitri had said that he and Little Ricky would be returning to the Belvedere Restaurant to share an amphora pot. He invited anybody who wanted to join them to meet up with him at 7PM. Eager to have more of that delicious pesto, I purposely avoided the pizza at Happy Hour, and just nibbled on a little cheese with my wine. Everybody else had filled themselves up, so Dimitri and Richard were getting ready to head out as a duo. I really wanted to go back to the Belvedere! But I didn't want to be the third wheel with Dimitri and Richard. Lannie saw my dilemma. She offered to go along. She said she'd have a drink and dessert with me.
The four of us enjoyed the scenic walk to the restaurant, laughing and chatting all the way.
An amphora pot is actually a two handled crockery urn, originally used to hold wine or sometimes oil and other things. At the Ristorante Belvedere, they have the "Amphora Belvedere" which consists of fresh from the sea clams, mussels, swordfish, octopus and lobster all stewed together with herbs and spices in the amphora pot. The pot is brought to your table and the contents dumped steaming into a large bowl which is shared by however many choose to share. Dimitri and Little Ricky said they could easily share a pot between them. That was fine with me because I wanted the pesto and Lannie had decided on a salad.
The four of us enjoyed the scenic walk to the restaurant, laughing and chatting all the way.
An amphora pot is actually a two handled crockery urn, originally used to hold wine or sometimes oil and other things. At the Ristorante Belvedere, they have the "Amphora Belvedere" which consists of fresh from the sea clams, mussels, swordfish, octopus and lobster all stewed together with herbs and spices in the amphora pot. The pot is brought to your table and the contents dumped steaming into a large bowl which is shared by however many choose to share. Dimitri and Little Ricky said they could easily share a pot between them. That was fine with me because I wanted the pesto and Lannie had decided on a salad.
Curious Capture
Dimitri, ever thinking, asked me if I'd ever tried octopus before (knowing that I hadn't). He chopped off an octopus tentacle, grabbed my fork and stabbed it, handing me the bite. "Try it," he urged!
It was a good thing there was plenty of limoncello on hand! I took a drink to "cleanse my palatte" and then forced the whole bit into my mouth, trying not to think about the baby suction cups on the tentacle. The taste wasn't bad, but the texture... Yikes!
"See? It's good!" Dimitri made a happy noise and took a bite of his own.
It was a fun meal. Richard and Dimitri are good friends and it was evident in watching them together. They just crack each other up!
It was a good thing there was plenty of limoncello on hand! I took a drink to "cleanse my palatte" and then forced the whole bit into my mouth, trying not to think about the baby suction cups on the tentacle. The taste wasn't bad, but the texture... Yikes!
"See? It's good!" Dimitri made a happy noise and took a bite of his own.
It was a fun meal. Richard and Dimitri are good friends and it was evident in watching them together. They just crack each other up!
After our meal, Little Ricky and Dimitri said goodbye. They were very vague about where they were going. So vague in fact, that I was sure they had a date with The Rickster. When I called them on it, they laughed and said "Gotta go! See ya!"
What a day!
What a day!